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Chocolate recipes

Temperature control disguised as dessert.

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Chocolate is a suspension of solids in cocoa butter, and cocoa butter is the reason it behaves the way it does — it sets hard at room temperature, melts at close to body heat, and can crystallise in six different forms of which only one is any good. That is what tempering is for. It is also why chocolate seizes when a small amount of water reaches it and behaves perfectly when a large amount does, which looks like a contradiction and is not. The recipes here say what percentage to use and why, because swapping a 70 per cent for a 50 per cent changes the sugar and the fat at once and will visibly alter a set.

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