Cuisines
Spanish recipes
Olive oil, paprika, and things shared from the middle of the table.
Spanish cooking is built on olive oil, pork, paprika and the habit of putting several small things on a table rather than one large one. The tapas format is not a style of food but a way of eating, and it changes what gets cooked: dishes that are good in three mouthfuls, that can sit in front of you still bubbling, that want bread more than they want cutlery. Pimentón — smoked paprika, dried over oak in Extremadura — is the flavour that reads as Spanish more than any other, and it is a post-Columbian arrival like the tomato and the potato. The recipes here cover both halves of the tradition: the fast bar dishes that take five minutes and the slow ones, the stews and the rice, that take an afternoon and feed a table.
10 recipes

Tarta de Santiago
A flourless almond cake with nothing in it but almonds, sugar, eggs and lemon, stencilled with the cross of Saint James.

Gazpacho
A chilled Andalusian soup of raw tomatoes, cucumber and pepper blended with bread and olive oil, which is what turns it creamy rather than watery.

Gambas al Ajillo
Prawns cooked hard in garlic oil with chilli, served still bubbling, with bread that exists to mop the pan.

Chickpea and Spinach Stew
Dried chickpeas cooked from scratch and thickened with fried bread pounded to a paste, which is how Seville gets body without cream.

Chicken and Prawn Paella
Bomba rice cooked flat and never stirred in a wide pan, which keeps the grains separate and toasts a crust onto the base.

Spanish Potato Tortilla
Potatoes and onion softened slowly in olive oil, then set with beaten egg in a small pan and turned out on a plate to finish.

Pisto
Courgette, pepper, onion and tomato cooked separately, then together, until everything collapses into something sweet and jammy.

Patatas Bravas
Twice-cooked potatoes under a smoky, faintly fierce tomato sauce — the one tapa every bar in Spain is judged on.

Fabada Asturiana
Big white beans stewed slowly with chorizo, morcilla and pork until the broth turns thick and orange.

Albóndigas in Almond Sauce
Pork and beef meatballs simmered in a pale sauce thickened with fried bread and almonds rather than flour.